Bug Out Location Water Well Plans Part 1
How safe is the water source at your Bug Out Location? Currently, when we stay at the camp we have to either filter water from a nearby creek, or use water from a very old hand dug well. The old well is becoming less and less reliable, so its time to drive a new well.
There is a saying I like to use – without safe drinking water, life as we know it can not exist. A contaminated water source can wipe out a community in a matter of days, and that is just the way it is.
Here are the current plans
Use post hole digger to dig a hole around 3 feet deep.
Insert around an 8 inch PVC sleeve into the hole, sleeve will be around 4 feet long. This gives us around 1 foot above ground.
Take a 4 inch piece of PVC pipe, notch the end so that the pipe has “teeth”.
Build a cap with 2 water inlets.
Attach water hoses to water source and to cap.
Take a 2×4, drill some holes so that a U-bolt will fit though the board.
Back truck up to well site and drop tailgate.
Attach the cap to the top of the 4 inch pipe.
Stand on tailgate of truck, insert pipe into sleeve.
Have 1 or 2 people with levels on the drill stem pipe.
Turn on water.
Using the 2×4, twist the pipe and push down.
Once the drill stem reaches the top of the sleeve, turn off the water.
Add second section of drill stem.
Install cap on top of second section of drill stem, allow PVC glue a little while to dry. This would be a good time to take a break.
The 2×4 will have to be adjusted as well to the new section.
Repeat until we hit good water.
The static water table is around 30 feet. I know this by looking down the old hand dug well.
My cousin has a water well, she lives around 300 yards from where we are drilling the new well. I plan on talking to my cousin to find out how deep her well is.
Once we have reached a given depth, a 3 foot – 4 foot well point will be installed onto a section of 1 1/4 pipe. The well point will be lowered into the well.
When the well point reaches the bottom of the well, gravel will be poured into the well. This is to add a buffer between the sand and the well point.
As the gravel is being poured in, the well casing will be pulled up around 3/4 the height of the well point. If the well point is 4 feet long, the casing will be pulled up 3 feet. This way 3/4 the length of the well point is in gravel.
Hopefully, water will backfill the 4 inch pipe.
What I want, is for the 4 inch pipe to act as a reservoir.
Once everything is in place, dig a shallow square hole around the 8 inch sleeve, then pour a cement slab.
From here, it is just a matter of installing the water pump.
What I would really like to do, is have an above ground 500 – 750 gallon water storage tank. With the storage tank above ground, I would have water pressure without electricity.
The issue I am running into, do I want to buy a submersible pump, or do I want to use an air forced system?
With an air system, air would be forced into the 4 inch pipe, which would cause water to come out of the 1 1/4 pipe. In an absolutely worse case situation, a bicycle tire pump could be used to get water out of the well.
Another solution would be to use a solar trickle pump to pull water out of the well and into the storage tank.
The main thing right now is to get the new well dug. Once we hit clean water, we can work out the above ground details later.
Regardless of what system we use to get the water out of the well, I want to have a pitcher pump on top of the well. In an absolutely worse case situation, we can use the hand pump to get water out of the well.
My ideal situation, would be to have 2 backup plans to have safe drinking water without electricity – solar powered trickle pump, and a hand powered pump.
The above ground water tank may not supply a “lot” of water pressure to the house, but it should be enough to flush the toilets, wash the dishes, water for cooking and take a shower.